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VIERTES TAG - Freitag, 2002/04/05 - "À Venise, seulement en le bateau!"
Milao nao e' propriamente uma cidade turistica e nao e' uma cidade muito
bonita. Capital economica da Italia, e' bastante industrial e um colosso
urbano. A zona mais interessante e' o centro historico, que tem como
referencia a Piazza del Duomo. A praca e' dominada pela espectacular
catedral (o "Duomo"), o maior exemplo da arte gotica em Italia, cuja
construcao levou mais de 500 anos (1386-1887). Mais do que as dimensoes
mastodonticas (a nossa nocao de escala e o nosso conceito de grandeza foi
mudando ao longo da viagem), o que verdadeiramente me impressionou foram
os vitrais. Sao os maiores, mais detalhados e bonitos que vi ate' hoje.
Sao milhares de quadros, fiquei com a sensacao que a Biblia estava la'
toda representada. A ligar a Piazza del Duomo 'a Piazza della Scala (onde
fica o neoclassico Teatro alla Scala, a mais famosa sala de opera do
mundo, que por fora nao tem nada de especial, e uma bela estatua do
Leonardo da Vinci) fica a famosa Galleria Vittorio Emanuelle. E' uma
especie de grande praca coberta por uma estrutura de ferro e vidro onde
estao as lojas mais finas e os cafes mais elegantes mas que tambem ja' foi
conspurcada pelo McDonalds... Destaque ainda para a Pinacoteca di Brera (o
nome sugere algo de malicioso mas trata-se de uma galeria de arte, que
inclui uma escola de artes) e para o imponente Castello Sforzesco,
originalmente renascentista mas alvo de muitos remendos, que alberga um
impressionante museu cuja seccao de instrumentos musicais e'
particularmente interessante. O "tour" nao terminou sem um fantastico
espresso no cafe' de um tipo que adorava Pasteis de Belem e uma passagem
pelo moderno estadio Meazza, que alberga os dois clubes da cidade: o AC
Milan, onde joga o Rui Costa (de quem se veem muitas camisolas 'a venda
nas ruas) e o Inter, onde joga o Sergio Conceicao (de quem tambem se veem
algumas). Curiosamente, na vespera ambas tinham perdido para a Taca
Rumamos a Veneza, gramando um transito infernal 'a saida de Milao. A ideia
original era novamente ficar na Pousada da Juventude, que sabiamos ficar
numa zona longe do centro. Numa gasolineira ja' perto da cidade
perguntamos pela tal zona. Disseram-nos "Venezia" mas nao deram mais
indicacoes. Esperamos que acabassem por aparecer sinais indicativos...
Veneza e' um conjunto de ilhas e o acesso rodoviario faz-se por uma longa
ponte. Quando acaba a ponte aparecem indicacoes de Parque e entra-se logo
a seguir numa praca. Contornamos a praca e so' vimos indicacoes de Parque
mas nada que indicasse o Centro ou a zona da pousada... Demos por nos a
sair da cidade pela mesma ponte por onde entramos e, com uma ingenuidade
de que hoje me envergonho, a maldizer os italianos por ma' sinalizacao.
Logo que pudemos encostar, abordamos um velhote com um ar simpatico que
falava frances. Perguntamos-lhe como e' que acediamos, de carro, 'a zona
central da cidade e ele, como se nao percebesse a pergunta, teimava em
dizer "le garage". Depois de alguma insistencia ele la' se apercebeu da
nossa inacreditavel ignorancia e explicou: "À Venise, seulement en le
bateau!". Rimo-nos de vergonha. Sabiamos que o transito era muito
condicionado em Veneza mas, mais uma vez, nao tinhamos feito o trabalho de
casa completo... Depois de deixar o carro num megalomano parque, la'
tratamos de apanhar o barco para a pousada (os ferry boats estao para
Veneza como os autocarros da Carris para Lisboa). Mas a pousada estava
cheia e demos por nos outra vez no barco, 'as 9 da noite, ainda sem sitio
onde dormir e a nao poder usar o carro para facilitar a procura. Na
pousada tinham-nos dado os contactos de uns albergues e ate' se tinha
tentado telefonar de la' mas ninguem atendia. Como tinhamos as moradas,
fomos 'a procura. Acabamos por desembarcar numa zona animada, cheia de
hoteis e restaurantes. Na busca de indicacoes, abordamos na rua mais um
velhote simpatico que nos disse nao valer a pena andar mais porque ele
tinha quartos disponiveis em hoteis de todas as categorias. Como nao nos
comprometiamos em ver, fomos com ele espreitar o de 2 estrelas. Sossegado,
limpo quarto de banho privativo e televisao e o preco (negociado) cerca de
1/4 daquele se pratica no Carnaval... Bendita epoca baixa, nao procuramos
mais. E acabamos o dia tranquilamente a jantar numa pizzeria (escolhi uma
fantastica pizza de presunto fumado e gorgonzola!), enquanto la' fora a
chuva estreava-se na nossa jornada...
FUNFTES TAG - Samstag, 2002/04/06 - Que c'est pas triste Venise!
Pensamos que, pela primeira vez desde que tinhamos deixado Heidelberg,
dormiriamos sem disturbios e tal esteve quase a concretizar-se, nao fossem
as empregadas de limpeza do hotel comecarem a sua labuta cedo nos
corredores e quartos desocupados...
Veneza caracteriza-se essencialmente por ruas estreitas e labirinticas,
casas velhas, pontes, canais e sossego. Aconteceu-nos muitas vezes entrar
em ruas sem saida, ou melhor, que terminam nos canais. Vem-se realmente
muitas gondolas, algumas com pseudo-cantores de opera a entreter os
transportados com pecas famosas cantadas sem afinacao mas com entusiasmo
e, sobretudo, com um apoteotico vibrato final despropositadamente longo.
Os sons dominantes em Veneza sao alias gerados por agua, vozes humanas,
instrumentos musicais e passarinhos (ou pombos).
O deambular pelo dito labirinto levou-nos ao animado mercado de rua, junto
ao Grande Canal, que atravessamos pela famosa Ponte di Rialto (que
alberga uma fileira de lojas tipo quiosque). O choque do dia da'-se
quando, de repente, o labirinto desemboca na fantastica Piazza San Marco
(a unica digna desse nome em Veneza, 'as outras pracetas chamam-lhes
"campi"). E' o centro monumental, com a dominante Basilica de Sao Marcos
(estilo oriental, simbolo da presenca de Deus no Mundo, e com fantasticos
azulejos medievais), o Palacio Ducale (uma organizada misturada de
estilos), o imenso Museu Correr (que delimita metade da Praca) e a Torre
Campanile, com quase 100 metros de altura, de onde se ve toda a cidade. A
Praca caracteriza-se ainda pelas miriades de pombos permanentemente
alimentados por turistas e pelas pequenas orquestras (estas de
qualidade superior, em contraste com os tenores de gondola) que, nas
esplanadas, deliciam clientes e transeuntes.
O inicio da tarde foi passado na Peggy Guggenheim Collection, o mais
importante museu italiano de arte Europeia e Americana da primeira metade
do seculo XX. A coleccao e' bastante diversificada e ha' muita gente
importante representada (Picasso, Dali, Chagall, Kadinsky, Klee, Miro',
Mondrian, Pollock...) mas nao ficamos particularmente deslumbrados. Abunda
a pintura abstracta (que ja' de si nao nos entusiasma muito) e
divertimo-nos a tentar adivinhar o titulo dos quadros. Estivemos perto em
1 ou 2 (vimos umas centenas) mas a maioria deles ate' nem tinha titulo ou,
quando tinha, era do genero "Composicao", "Construcao", "Pintura", como se
o autor nao se comprometesse com o que la' pintou. Eu nao tenho formacao
artistica mas parece-me que 'as vezes ha' muito "pseudo-intelectualismo" a
avaliar e interpretar verdadeiras nulidades de conteudo e a chamar "bruto"
a quem nao percebe. Um dos quadros mais famosos que la' esta' e' a
"Composicao" do Mondrian.
Na altura havia la' uma
tipa a muito expressivamente (tentar) explicar o quadro e a fazer notar,
por exemplo, que o rectangulo vermelho estava ali porque aquela era a
unica posicao em que este equilibrava a maior abundancia de linhas
horizontais do lado contrario da tela... So' nos apeteceu ter regua e
esquadro e calcular um integralzito para calar a gaja...
Penultimo registo sobre Veneza: a cedencia do solo assente em estacas,
numa cidade que se esta' a afundar lentamente, permitiu-nos ver uma igreja
inclinada, qual Torre de Pisa.
Para acabar, podendo parecer preconceito, os Americanos estao em
todo o lado e fazem-se sempre notar. Sao faceis de identificar, mesmo sem
abrir a boca (quando o fazem, nao restam duvidas)... Em Veneza eram os
unicos a comprar malas e carteiras de couro femininas aos vendedores de
rua africanos. Nada contra os vendedores mas os artigos em causa eram de
baixa qualidade, via-se a cola com que as etiquetas das diferentes marcas
estavam colocadas e, ao que apuramos, estavam a ser compradas para
serem oferecidas 'as namoradas como pecas de design exclusivo...
Rumamos em direccao 'a Austria e a Innsbruck, onde fomos recebidos pela
inestimavel amizade do Carlos Russo e pela simpatia dos seus companheiros
de apartamento Nina e Lothar...
Esta ja' vai longa... Nova pausa!
PS -> Ja' agora, para os resistentes que ainda leem isto, se os locais
visitados vos despertam algum interesse, nao se esquecam que e' facil ler
mais informacao e ver belas fotos na InterNet...
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